The Power of Misrepresentation

The world of amateur (and professional) gourmands is rife with turned up noses, especially when it comes to restricted diets. The hedonists who head the major food magazines seem to think of vegetarians and vegans as unsavory characters. "How could anyone pass up a rack of lamb, roasted slowly for ten hours and drizzled with fig preserves and mint jelly?" they proclaim in their articles. Julie Powell, of "Julie & Julia" fame, frequently notes on her blog how she "feels so sad," for the pitiful vegans who take no pleasure in their meals. This grossly oversimplified statement comes as a shock to me, as I actually found my diet improved as a result of finding veganism. Where once I merely ate to feel full and did not particularly care whether my meal came from a box or a freezer, or whether it created waste and pollution, my switch to veganism brought me to fresh, whole foods and a world of spices and flavors I never before imagined possible.

I find that every day I have to wrestle with the misrepresentations of vegetarianism given by upper class purients, who trump self indulgence over morals. No amount of suffering will keep the Philistines from their sunday brunches overflowing with baked brisket and filet mignon.
Am I the only vegetarian cook who has noticed that The Food Network does not have a single vegetarian cooking show? So rarely do any of the Food Network personalities even offer a meatless variation on their dishes, that one might think the population contains so few herbavores it doesn't warrant a consideration. This of course is certainly not the case, and in fact, our ranks have been steadily growing. More people are turning to vegetarianism for their health, conscience and interest in food, so why is there a growing cultural backlash?


Is it possible that the Harvard educated writers for the top food magazines have no clue about vegetarian cuisine? I find it difficult to think that anyone can steep themselves in food culture and study without discovering alternative diets. So, perhaps the attempt to suppress vegetarian lifestyle choices is deliberate. A conspiracy. The charge would not be unwarranted, as the meat and dairy industry pumps millions into its Ad campaigns, convincing the American public that meat and dairy provide the basis of healthy diets, contrary to medical studies that show the very opposite. I imagine a scene in a dingy office in the basement of a highrise. Two men in black suits, the one, CEO of FoodNetwork, the other, a mobster with ties to the beef industry. The two shake hands, and the mob man opens a briefcase of cash, stacked neatly. "Here's one million in cash, now keep it meaty." Except, I'm sure it would be more than a million....

Recently, I read "Alice Waters and Chez Panisse," by Thomas McNamee. I was pleased to learn that Waters was one of the first chefs to include local, organic, seasonal produce on her menu. When I followed this with a look at the Chez Panisse menu online, I realized that not a single vegetarian option appeared on the bill. Vegetarians Not Wanted. Any average foodie would think that vegetarians are deprived of the gastronomical decadence provided a meat eater. No beef short ribs? No braised pork shoulder? What? There are a myriad of examples of vegetarian-bashing on prime time television and in the world of professional chefs. Anthony Bourdain comes to mind as the most flagrantly outspoken posterboy for carnivorous cuisine. His hatred for all things vegetarian baffles the most timid meat eater. I don't know why any self respecting chef would disregard the majority of their ingredients as insignificant to good eating. And that is just the point here, meat and dairy makes up a very small list of potential ingredients. More edible plants inhabit our planet than animal life, and an abundance of them are delicious, interesting, even exciting. You wouldn't know it to talk to a spokesperson on the Food network who thinks "vegetarian" means lettuce and carrots.

I cull from the great food sources what I can. I read Escoffier's classic cookbook and disregarded all the instructions for cream, butter, and meat in almost every recipe. I recently purchased the CIA's Professional Chef book and was horrified to realized I had thrown half my money away, as the book largely consists of step-by-step guides on how to butcher, prepare and serve animals. The spice and vegetable sections are wonderful, but I shutter at the chapter on how to distinguish the different cuts of beef.

The world of gastronomes seems to exclude vegetarians completely, as if one cannot be a true food lover, a true gourmand without consuming flesh. I say its about time that veggie lovers have their day. I too can spend considerable time reducing a wine stock to pour over glistening endive. If its technique and innovation that make a gourmet chef, I dare those to eliminate the overpowering flavors of flesh. How easy it is, how simple to prepare a steak and serve with steamed vegetables. How boring. How bland. It is a challenge to work outside of the ordinary and that is one of the greatest things about vegan cooking. Everyday I learn something new.
You will never hear a professional food personality take this position. While the representation suggests that vegan food lacks flavor and variety, the truth is that meat centered diets contain very little originality. If I did cook meat, it would bore me. I love the feel of slicing into a crisp apple, of peeling a hot beet, of coring the center of an acorn squash, and I do it all with a clear conscience.

I am a vegan and I take pleasure in my food. I enjoy every bite. The hope is for the rest of the world to discover the same thing.